寶啾寶石報報： SSEF訊息分享─翡翠篇

寶啾寶石報報： SSEF訊息分享─翡翠篇

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　SSEF日前分析了一個特殊的翡翠手鐲(見圖2)和一系列十二枚令人印象深刻高度匹配的鮮豔綠色(帝王綠Imperial green)且高透光度(圖1)的凸圓面寶石。除了這些高品質的物件外，還分析了一些注入樹脂和染色的翡翠玉石，包括破碎後以膠黏合的手鐲(圖2右側)，鑑定結果對我們的客戶來說感到相當詫異。

 

　正如寶石學家所熟知的，珠寶使用的翡翠硬玉不屬於單晶寶石，而實際上是一種岩石種類，主要由微小交鎖狀的鈉鋁矽酸鹽晶體jadeite所組成。許多情況下，這些岩石的礦物組成不均勻，但可能含有輝石類的其他成員(特別是鈉鋁矽酸鹽 (以下稱-硬玉)Jadeite─綠輝石omphacite─鈉鉻輝石Kosmochlor的固溶體)甚至還包含更多的礦物，從而構成在分析和正確命名法應用上的一些問題。

　

　最近在客戶幾件小型雕件的寶石中發現了這種綜合性的案例，該物件在視覺上很像綠色翡翠硬玉(圖3)。

 

　使用分析化學元素的方法外，主要以多次顯微拉曼光譜分析來看這些樣本含有不同含量的硬玉和綠輝石。圓板狀樣本以硬玉為主要組成，而三角板狀樣本實際上由富含鈣-鎂的輝石類-綠輝石以及和介於硬玉至透輝石Jadeite-Diopside固溶體的居中成分所組成(圖4)。因此，這個三角形樣本的正確名稱是綠輝石玉Ompacite-Jade而不是鈉鋁矽酸鹽質的翡翠硬玉Jadeite Jade。儘管這種區分看起來相當複雜並且是一項嚴正的科學決策。而必須進一步說明的是，綠輝石明顯比硬玉豐富，在自然界中可以找到相當大量的礦藏。

 

　根據CIBJO定義，我們認為這是貿易間的重要信息，儘管硬玉和綠輝石可能看起來非常相似，並在市場上皆以「玉─Jade」的詞綴一起使用；2016年香港寶石學協會(GAHK)與香港檢測認證委員會(HKCTC)共同製定和發布的命名後，傳統的術語「翡翠Fei Cui」可用於硬玉和綠輝石佔主要成份的岩石(見www.gahk.org/journal/2017/a07.pdf)。如上所述，硬玉或像硬玉的岩石，暱稱為「朋友」，對於寶石學研究人員來說是個複雜但迷人且引發思索的石頭，它們不僅提供美麗和價值，而且具有特定的科學意義，因為它們為地質學家提供了對地質過程和地層條件的理解，以及歷史學家和考古學家可以洞察到過去的文化和歷史貿易路線的脈絡。

 

圖文/SSEF 麥可‧欽尼斯基博士

編譯/Judy Tu

(原文刊登於《珠寶世界》No.85。)

寶啾寶石報報：GIA, Chow Tai Fook Unveil Digital Grading Report GIA周大福啟用電子證書

寶啾寶石報報：GIA, Chow Tai Fook Unveil Digital Grading Report 

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 Hong Kong's largest jeweler has launched a blockchain-powered app that provides consumers with a 4Cs digital grading report, along with data tracking the diamond's journey from mine to market.

Chow Tai Fook partnered with the Gemological Institute of America (GIA) to develop the platform for its T Mark brand, claiming the technology will revolutionize the way the industry engages with customers.

"Consumers live on their mobile devices, so we need to use similar platforms to improve their buying experience and ensure trust and confidence," Kent Wong, managing director of Chow Tai Fook Jewellery Group, explained in an interview with Rapaport News following the launch last week.

The jeweler, which has more than 2,600 points of sale across Hong Kong, Macau and mainland China, is testing the platform at four of its Hong Kong stores before expanding to other locations by year-end.

When a customer buys a T Mark-branded diamond, the GIA grading report is registered to him or her and recorded on the blockchain ledger shared between Chow Tai Fook and the GIA. In addition to the data that typically appears on a paper grading report, the T Mark app also provides information such as the diamond's country of origin and where it was cut and polished, as well as details of its design and setting into jewelry.

Much of that manufacturing process is completed by Chow Tai Fook, since the company polishes about 50% of diamonds larger than 0.20 carats in-house. That number increases to 70% for the T Mark brand, which is focused on 0.30- to 0.99-carat diamonds in the pilot phase, according to Wong.

Using a patented nanotechnology technique, the company inscribes a unique serial number on the table of each diamond before putting the stones on the blockchain, he explained. More than 3,000 T Mark diamonds have so far been listed on the blockchain, which was developed by service-provider Everledger and secured by IBM's platform, the companies reported.
M2M to Blockchain

The program also represents a milestone for the GIA in that it is the first time its grading reports have been available in a digital format, secured by blockchain technology, explained Tom Moses, executive vice president and chief laboratory and research officer at the GIA.

The system differs from the GIA's Mine to Market (M2M) traceability program, which the lab launched last year. With M2M, the GIA works with participating manufacturers and miners to inscribe the rough diamond before it is cut and polished, so that the stone can be tracked through the pipeline, matching the resulting polished with the original rough stones.

However, those goods are currently not secured by blockchain, although Moses said the data and events that M2M recorded would eventually move to a blockchain database.

He also expects that the GIA will eventually provide digital grading reports for generic diamonds submitted to its labs. "That is ultimately our plan, and it's easy to envision," he said.

Doing so would enable other manufacturers to connect more easily with each other or the likes of Chow Tai Fook that are also on the blockchain, resulting in the whole pipeline becoming more efficient and secure, Moses explained.

However, that movement within the industry is being driven by consumers, who are demanding a more efficient and trustworthy buying experience, he stressed.

"We will now be able to link a customer with their diamond's grading results and record this relationship on the blockchain," Moses said. "This is an important milestone for the diamond industry and in moving blockchain from business-to-business, to business-to-consumer."

"It's an evolution in how we share information," he added. 

Images: (Top) GIA and Chow Tai Fook management launch the T Mark platform in Hong Kong last week. Bottom right: Digital GIA grading report. (Credit: courtesy)

寶啾寶石報報 ：Lorraine Schwartz’s Emmy Bracelet

寶啾寶石報報 ：Lorraine Schwartz's Emmy Bracelet 

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On the red carpet, bracelets and rings are too often overshadowed by statement earrings or elaborate collars and necklaces, and that's a shame, because pieces like this Lorraine Schwartz bangle warrant a long second look. 

As entranced as we were with actress Ellie Kemper's lavender jade, amethyst, coral and diamond earrings, also by Schwartz, we initially missed this show-stopping accoutrement. 

The 18-karat rose gold "Caviar" bangle features luscious coral cabochons amid a sea of rose-cut white diamonds. 

The bangle, Kemper's earrings and the yellow gold, coral and diamond ring she donned at the 2018 Emmy Awards are all available at Lorraine Schwartz, price upon request.

寶啾寶石報報：De Beers Rolls Out XL Version of Lab-Grown Screening Device

寶啾寶石報報：De Beers Rolls Out XL Version of Lab-Grown Screening Device

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 The International Institute of Diamond Grading & Research's new SynthDetect XL, a lab-grown diamond screening device that allows for more jewelry to be tested simultaneously 

 

 September 18, 2018

London—The International Institute of Diamond Grading & Research has introduced SynthDetect XL, an advanced version of the SynthDetect screening device.

IIDGR, which is the De Beers Group's lab, introduced the SynthDetect machine last year, calling it the first screening device for man-made diamonds that can test multiple stones in set jewelry at once.

It uses IIDGR's patented luminescence technology to screen diamonds of all sizes in rings, earrings, bangles, brooches and necklaces.
 
Now, IIDGR unveiled a new version of the machine at the recently concluded Hong Kong Jewellery & Gem Fair.

SynthDetect XL has a larger base unit that allows for more jewelry to be screened simultaneously, like larger necklaces, multiple solitaire rings and multiple bracelets.

The new version still uses the detection techniques for identifying natural (mined) diamonds developed for the original SynthDetect device, meaning if a stone in a piece of jewelry doesn't display the attributes of a natural diamond, it is highlighted immediately and with a high degree of accuracy.  

De Beers did not respond to an email by press time inquiring about the machine's availability and pricing. (The original SynthDetect costs $16,250.)

"We're delighted to be introducing the next innovation in IIDGR's range of industry-leading synthetic screening devices, SynthDetect XL," IIDGR President Jonathan Kendall said. "Using the same revolutionary technology as the original SynthDetect, this new device allows more pieces of jewelry to be screened at a faster rate than ever before. SynthDetect XL will be another valuable tool for the trade, building on the strong positive feedback we've received since launching the first SynthDetect last year."

寶啾寶石報報：5-Carat 'Ai' Blue Diamond to Sell for $12-15M

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 The 5-carat "Ai" fancy vivid blue diamond is the highlight of Sotheby's Oct. 3 jewelry auction in Hong Kong.

 

 September 19, 2018

Hong Kong—A 5-carat fancy vivid blue diamond ring will be the highlight of Sotheby's upcoming jewelry auction in Hong Kong.

Named the "Ai" diamond after the Chinese word for love, the stone is expected to sell for between $12.5 and $15.3 million when it hits the block next month.

It is the leading lot in Sotheby's Hong Kong Magnificent Jewels and Jadeite jewelry sale, slated for Oct. 3 at the Hong Kong Convention and Exhibition Centre.

In addition to the Ai diamond, the jewelry auction will feature a pair of earrings with old European brilliant-cut fancy vivid yellow diamonds weighing 51.17 carats total—"well-matched" in color, ton and saturation, Sotheby's said—accented with white diamonds. They are designed to depict a fruitful harvest of melons flowering from their vines.

The earrings, pictured below, could sell for between $4.8 and $6.1 million.


There also will be a number of important jade pieces, including a necklace composed of 51 jadeite beads of a brilliant emerald green color and with "very good" translucency, with a diamond clasp signed Chaumet. Pictured below, its pre-sale estimate is available upon request by Sotheby's.


The jewelry auction also will include two fine jadeite bangles displaying hues of both lavender and green that  blend seamlessly. Possessing strong saturation and fine translucency, the pair will be sold separately, with estimates of $665,000-$895,000 (left bangle) and $640,000-$895,000 (right bangle).



The jewelry auction also will have a section featuring works created by celebrated Asian contemporary designer Wallace Chan. This includes the tanzanite, chalcedony and diamond ring seen below, which could sell for as much as $230,000, as well as the earrings pictured below featuring conch pearl, gems and diamonds, which could sell for between $281,000 and $408,000.

The gallery also shows a pair of gem-set earrings from Chan, also featuring jade and diamonds, which are expected to garner between $70,500 and $109,000.

Chan was the first Asian jeweler to exhibit at the Biennale in Paris in 2012, and today can be seen at such major fairs as The European Fine Art Fair (TEFAF) and Masterpiece in London. His pieces are sought by collectors from around the world.

Rounding out the jewelry auction will be a selection of red carpet necklaces by jewelers such as Van Cleef & Arpels and David Morris, as well as a vintage Bulgari suite, and a curated selection of jewels primarily from the 1950s and 1960s from a "distinguished" private collection.

寶啾寶石報報：哈孝遠登記結婚！送6位數婚戒 喊話嬌妻生3寶

寶啾寶石報報：哈孝遠登記結婚！送6位數婚戒 喊話嬌妻生3寶

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哈孝遠正拍攝醫療喜劇《實習醫師鬥格》，飾演宅男實習醫師「吳福榮」，劇中跟女友感情不順利，沒想到今（10）日跟交往一年多的女友瑄瑄登記結婚。問及是不是「衝動結婚」？哈孝遠則否認，表示是因為年紀到了，跟女友感情也非常穩定，因此決定走入人生下一個階段。

哈 孝遠透露，其實很早就想女友登記結婚，但礙於要避開農曆七月，所以等到今日才登記結婚。談及婚禮，哈孝遠則說婚禮要好好籌備，預計明年宴客，屆時會提前宣 布喜訊，並謝謝外界祝福。哈孝遠也透露，雖然目前與嬌妻在外租屋，但未來會一起努力存錢買房，預計生三個小孩，哈孝遠笑說：「可以打鬥牛，剛剛好。」

寶啾寶石報報： 11ct. Purple to Lead Alrosa Hong Kong Sale

 寶啾寶石報報： 11ct. Purple to Lead Alrosa Hong Kong Sale

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  An 11-carat diamond will feature in Alrosa's inaugural auction of colored polished diamonds at the upcoming Hong Kong Jewellery & Gem Fair.

The cushion-cut, fancy-deep-purple-pink stone (pictured) — which will lead the sale — is the largest diamond of its color the GIA has graded, Alrosa said Tuesday.

The miner will present 250 polished diamonds of various shapes and colors at the auction, which it has named "True Colour." They will include a vivid-orangey-yellow diamond weighing more than 15 carats, and a cushion-shaped, 11-carat, fancy-vivid yellow. The Hong Kong show runs from September 12 to 16.

"It took more than a year to prepare the collection," said Alrosa CEO Yury Okoemov. "It is a masterpiece of diamond production created by skillful professionals who put heart into their work, keep the traditions, and know what a real 'Russian cut' is."

Alrosa will use the sale as a step toward its goal of expanding further into the colored-diamond market, Okoemov added.

The miner will sell the collection through a special electronic platform, which it used previously to sell large stones, it said. After the initial sale, the company will hold a regular auction for its polished stones once or twice a year.

Starting this year, the miner has been sorting its colored rough diamonds into 19 color categories, and polishes most of them in its in-house manufacturing division.